A low power, long life LED flashlight circuit
Posted by Matthew
Scouring the Internet for information on LEDs, I accidentally stumbled upon a PDF detailing a flashlight made from PVC. For the torch, he biases ultra-bright LEDs with ballast resistors as described in my LED lighting guide. This is a simple solution, but a with a slightly more complicated circuit we can extend battery life by over ten times!
Download PDF instructions for the inefficient version

Electrical losses in the flashlight
In this flashlight, each LED/resistor combination consumes 4.5volts at 30mA or about 135mWatts. The ballast resistor alone consumes 1.1volts at 30mA or about 33mWatts. Therefore, 25% of the power being drained from the batteries is lost in the resistor of each LED chain!!
Battery life
The ‘C’ size batteries in the PVC flashlight have a capacity of around 4 500mAh. If you build your flashlight with seven LEDs, there is a constant current drain of 7 * 30mA or 210mA. Dividing this into our battery capacity, it becomes obvious this flashlight will only stay lit for about a day. This is a far cry from the 50-100 hours claimed by commercial flashlights running on smaller ‘AA’ batteries.
Cutting your losses
As mentioned above, the ballast resistors are wasting 25% of our battery power. Electronic Design proposed a simple circuit to resolve this in a recent article. The front end of their circuit draws less than a milliamp of extra current.

The circuit is best described in two parts: one, the boost circuit function of Q1 and Q2, and two, the control circuit of Q3 and JFET1. Assume Q1 is off. With the battery voltage slightly above Q2’s VVB, a positive Q2 base current [iB = (battery voltage VBE)/RJET1] would flow. Q2 turns on, which switches inductor L1 to ground.
The end result is a 23volt pulse (as shown in Figure 2) across the series of ultra-bright LEDs. At 278kHz, the human eye cannot distinguish the difference between these pulses and a constantly lit LED. This saves even more battery power.
As the battery voltage decreases, the pulses become further apart. The brightness remains indistinguishable until the voltage falls near 2volts. (The circuit does not function well below 2volts) I doubt the PVC flashlight has this efficiency near the end of its life.
The extended battery life
According to Electronic Design, this circuit consumes an current equivalent to about 17mA. Powered by our ‘C’ cell in the PVC, this circuit could run for 265 hours! This is ten times the original PVC design.

Cheap, rugged, long lasting. Good idea!
This was posted previously on the Make blog entry for the 1,024,000 mcp portable light:
“I know that some might think that pulse with modulation (PWM) might be better solution “but” when using with white LEDs, PWM dramatically reduces the life of the phosphor. PWM does have its advantages in portable devices but if you’d like to have the most efficient LED array, use resistors and proper power source and avoid PWM if possible. ”
Is that (PWM) esentially what this cicuit is doing?
Yes this circuit is a PWM.
Any credence to “PWM dramatically reduces the life of the phosphor.”
Any ideas on how to make one of these kinetic powered … would be a realy fun project to try
278Khz, eh O_o
Thereminists beware, 270Khz is a very popular fixed-oscillator frequency, so having this flashlight around and on will make an 8Khz scream.
In regards to PWM, for dimming LEDs it is reccomended over just lowering the current through the LEDs.
The fact that PWM decreases the lifespan of the LEDs is believable. However, in this situation the end justifies the means. The simplicity of the circuit and elongated battery life are worth the small risks.
First of all the circuit is not a PWM, looks more like a step-up converter. For modern LEDs, PWM is less efficient than simply a lower current. The extended battery life is a bit misleading I think, because the LEDs are probably just getting much less current than in the original design.
betrik: You are right, the circuit is technically not PWM, but it is implementing a very similar idea.
The circuit is definitely more efficient than a ballast resistor. However, it does gain most of its ‘efficient’ from the pulsing. Honestly, if you implemented this circuit, you would barely notice any difference in brightness. The human eye reacts somewhat logarithmically to light. (The brighter the light the less sensitive we are.) It is also difficult to distinguish the difference as the period between pulses decreases.
I have seen PWM recommended in LED documentation on several occasions. It may or may not be more efficient depending on your implementation. As far as performance and specs, no two LEDs are guaranteed to have similar responses outside their rated current.
In this particular application, the circuit required to drive the LEDs at a constant current without extraneous losses is significantly more complex.
But did I read their article right that they are using 20mA White LED’s? Most of the ones I have seen are ~30mA. I wonder how much that will kill the theoretical efficiency.
Is the voltage on this circuit 6v? Am I right counting 4 cells on the diagram?
Thanks,
Jay
Thanks anyway, I read the original article and saw the voltage listed on their diagram.
Does anyone know how you would go about dimming the LEDs in conjunction with this circuit design? I’ll looking for a simple solution (like a potentiometer somewhere in the circuit). I’m new to this so I am also doubting the answer is that simple?
Thanks,
Jay
I am not sure where you would want to put a pot to dim the lights, but keep in mind that you are going to be burning power by having the pot there and you won’t get nearly as much efficiency by having it. I was warrant a guess that dimming this wouldn’t be a quick and easy fix due to the way it is designed. Don’t take my word as a final answer though, I would love to hear what someone else has to say on the topic.
i believe puting a pot in the circuit would allow you to adjust the frequency does “dimming” the leds by reducing the on time without raising the load wattage of the circit significantly. can anybody confirm this?
Has anyone actually built this circuit. I have modelled it in LT Spice and cannot get it to oscillate.
As the original text suggests I have used a 1N4148 in place of the schottky as I do not have a spice model for the SD101. I have tried various schottkys in this place and cannot get the posted waveform at the collector of Q2.
Can someone help me correct my Spice model before I go out and buy the components for this circuit?
Could this type of circuit be built with only 1 or 2 LEDs and an on/off switch? I need to build a small circuit board with only 1-2 white LEDs using 9v or less and it needs to last at least 14 days constant or 28 days, running it 8-9 hrs a day. Is it possible? Can ya help me out? I am not extremely knowledgable in this field. Thanks, Phil
The two transistor circuit, Q1 and Q2, is basically a blocking oscillator like the Joule Thief. Remember that this circuit works by regulating the output to a constant voltage, which isn’t really what the LEDs want. The higher the output voltage, the higher the rectified voltage across C2, which then restricts the current thru the JFET, and hence to Q2 and the V boost circuit.
I’m not sure this circuit requires a JFET, other than to limit the current, but the same thing can be done with a resistor and a transistor. You can remove the JFET and replace it with a 1k resistor, and the circuit should work okay, since that’s the same circuit seen in other articles. But the first thing to do above all else is to replace Q2 with a 2N4401, since a 2N3904 can’t handle the high peak current over 100mA that is required. Also it doesn’t seem necessary to use a Schottky diodes, a 1N4148 should work okay, since there is just a very small current thru the diode.
Just tack solder it together and see what happens when the parts are changed. Have fun.
Great DIY LED Flashlight guide. Only thing lacking is the apparent battery life. How would the cost compare to the battery drain versus just buying commercial?
Great DIY guide. Only thing lacking is the apparent battery life. How would the cost compare to the battery drain versus just buying commercial?